Bone fragment reveals humans wore leather clothes 39,000 years ago

An analysis of a 39,600-year-old bone containing strange indentations claims it was used as a punch board for making holes in leather, revealing how Homo sapiens in Europe made clothes to help them survive cold climates at that time.

“We do not have much information about clothes because they’re perishable,” says Luc Doyon at the University of Bordeaux, France, who led the study. “They are an early technology we’re in the dark about.”

The bone, from the hip of a large mammal such as a horse or bison, was discovered at a site called Terrasses de la Riera dels Canyars near Barcelona, Spain. It has 28 puncture marks on its flat surface, including a linear sequence of 10 holes about 5 millimetres apart from each other, as well as other holes in more random positions.

This pattern was “highly intriguing”, says Doyon, because it didn’t appear to be a decoration or to represent a counting tally – the usual explanations for deliberate patterns of lines or dots on prehistoric objects. Microscopic analysis revealed that the line of 10 indents was made by one tool and the other dots were made at different times by five different tools. “Why do we have different types of arrangements on the same bone?” says Doyon.

The researchers used an approach called experimental archaeology, in which you try out different ancient tools to see how marks were made. “We’re attempting to replicate the gestures that were used by prehistoric people to produce a specific modification on the bone,” says Doyon.

They found that the only way to recreate the type of indents on the Canyars bone was to knock a chisel-like stone tool called a burin through a thick hide, a technique called indirect percussion. The same method is still used by modern-day cobblers and in traditional societies to pierce leather.

The most likely explanation for the indents is that they were made during the manufacture or repair of leather items, say the researchers. After punching a hole in the animal hide, a thread could be pushed through the material with a pointed tool to make a tight seam, says Doyon.

“It’s a very significant discovery,” says Ian Gilligan at the University of Sydney, Australia. “We have no direct evidence for clothes in the Pleistocene, so finding any indirect evidence is valuable. The oldest surviving fragments of cloth in the world date from around 10,000 years ago.”

This discovery helps solve a mystery about the emergence of fitted clothing. Homo sapiens reached Europe around 42,000 years ago, yet eyed needles haven’t been found in this region from earlier than around 26,000 years ago and these aren’t strong enough to repeatedly puncture thick leather – raising the question of how these ancient people managed to make garments to fit them.

“The knowledge about making fitting clothing without bone needles is something we didn’t have access to before,” says Doyon.

“The location and date are interesting: southern Europe nearly 40,000 years ago,” says Gilligan. “That’s quite soon after the arrival of Homo sapiens, during some rapid cold swings in the climate. It’s when and where we’d expect our ancestors to need good clothes for protection.”

Doyon and his colleagues argue that this punch board marks a crucial cultural adaptation to climate change that helped modern humans expand to new regions.

The punch board was one of six artefacts found at the Canyars site, they say, and could have been part of a repair kit.